NYFW’s New Look
New York Fashion Week, possibly one of the most coveted fashion events of the year, has made another lasting expression. This year has exhibited captivating shows, numerous shying away from the usual showcasing of exuberantly themed collections, and instead adding an additional layer of consciousness to them. From the choice of models to the inspiration for collections to historical references, NYFW is embracing the look of diversity. Claudia Li’s all Asian cast of models was refreshing to see. The designer wanted to explore the diversity that Asians bought to America while also breaking the stereotype of what it meant to be a young Asian in America.
Prabal Gurung’s Spring 2019 Ready to Wear collection had a ‘forever on vacation’ look inspired by his native Nepal. Wanting to diversify and raise awareness on the catwalk, the show’s set had prayer flags laced through tree branches and strung around leaves giving a vibrant tone to the colorful show. Capturing the athleisure trend in America, the semi-neon, brightly colored hues were further inspired by the Tharu people of the hills of Nepal, known for their resistance in keeping the lifestyle and culture they’ve kept alive; the centre point of Gurung’s 2019 collection. Silken, ribbon like fabric swiveled down the runway, giving the look of nonchalant elegance with hourglass silhouettes for women and oversized active wear and cargo shorts for men. The laissez fare attitude of the collection took from male silhouettes, merging them with the woman's collection, giving a freedom of body and mind. With models represented from at least three dozen different countries, the collection exhibited the future of fashion.
Pyer Moss’s Spring 2019 Ready to Wear show continued designer Kerby Jean Raymond’s theme of exploring Black America in a riveting collection entitled “American, Also lesson 2.” A highly detailed and well thought out show, the designer “created a world devoid of angst of racism and imagined what Black American life would be like if it were had been left untouched, unholstered, and unbothered.” according to a press release issued by the label. Inspired by The Negro Motorist Green Book which was published yearly from 1936 to 1966 to help navigate racist towns across America for the Black traveler. His choice of Brooklyn as the backdrop to his collection, signified its founding by James Weeks ten years after the abolishment of slavery in New York. It was also one of the first free Black Communities in America.
Signature pieces of the collection included a T-Shirt with “Stop Calling it 911 On The Culture” and a cummerband with “See Us Now.” Artwork was specially designed and commissioned for the collection by Derrick Adams whose paintings were splashed across plain, white t-shirts. A Black page boy, a flower girl at a wedding and a Black man grilling burgers, all showed the contrasting personality’s of Black America. Jean Raymond told Vanity Fair the questions he was trying to answer were "What does a mundane Saturday look like when we’re just left alone? What is black leisure wear?"
The rising trend of inventive, diverse and in depth fashion shows is applaudable and expresses a shift from the traditional aesthetic appeal in the world of fashion.
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